Mong Cai

It’s an easy walk from the border crossing with China into Mong Cai, the first Vietnamese city. There’s no need to rent a motorbike, though drivers will hassle you to do so. You’ll see a modern apartment building on the street leading away from the border. Turn right at the corner (west) before this building and you’ll come to a market. On the block to your right (north), in the direction of the border, there are several hotels. From what I could figure out, the Vietnamese for hotel is Nha Nhgi, but there are also signs in Chinese, 旅館. The hotels are usually identifiable by balconies and obvious reception areas. Compared to the concrete efficiency of some Chinese hotels, the colorful décor will certainly be welcome.

The bus station, where you can catch buses to Haiphong or Hanoi, is about three kilometers away from the market. It’s best to take a motorbike and walk back. On the way to the bus station, you’ll come to a circular before a bridge. On this circular there is a post office which will exchange Chinese money. You can also make phone calls from here. Next to it is a computer arcade where you can access the Internet. There is a bank and ATM which will give credit card advances nearer the market.

Remember the street you turned onto in front of the apartment building which leads to the market? Just continue on on it and you’ll come to a T-intersection. Turn right at this intersection, which will take you in the direction of the river, and there is a bank on the right.

Expect to be stared at in Mong Cai, encouraged to buy things, to ride on the back of a motorbike. People will invite you to have tea and beers with them, even if they can’t speak more than three words of English. They’re just curious about you. Evidently not too many westerners pass through this town. No one was too forceful with me about buying anything. The people were helpful, and, compared to the Chinese, more laid back. They were often smiling and waving, saying, “Hello.” This might get tiring after a few days, being a celebrity, but the alternative, being regarded with suspicion, is far worse.

Note: I drank iced coffee and didn’t suffer.